Healing Tools in Photoshop: Picking the Right One

A symmetrical arrangement features a Photoshop artwork at the center with an illustration of a fantastical bird in a top hat. Various stamps, brushes, and tools frame the image on a textured background.

Fixing blemishes is one of the most basic uses for Photoshop, tiresome though it is at times. They vary, these blemishes, whether they’re dust spots on digital images, marks and scratches on film scans, or blobs, stains, and tears on old prints. Other blemishes are the kind that exist on your subject, like skin flaws.

My own retouching skills are average, I’d say. I have a good idea of the strengths and weaknesses of all healing and cloning tools, but not so much that I always pick the right one the first time. I don’t have a bottomless bag of tricks for fixing things, either.

The type of area you’re trying to heal or retouch usually dictates what works best. For instance, which tool would you pick for dust spots over patterned or textured areas? How do you remove awkward flaws along edges? What about detail that is obliterated, whether by photographic error or age?

One thing about writing articles is that it often fills a few gaps in the author’s knowledge, or it dusts off details that once were easily retrieved. I hope the following helps some of you in addition to enhancing my own know-how.

Table of Contents

Healing and Cloning Tools, and Generative AI

Spot Healing Brush Tool

The Spot Healing Brush Tool is good for removing small blemishes in plain areas, such as small skin imperfections or dust spots in the sky. Sometimes this tool works well over repetitive patterns, but it’s unreliable with edges, often deforming them.

A snow-covered mountain peak is bathed in warm sunlight under a clear blue sky. The peaks are highlighted with touches of golden light. Red circles are drawn around various points in the sky surrounding the mountain.
The Spot Healing Brush tool is ideal for removing dust spots from clear skies. Modern cameras have eliminated much of this work through efficient sensor cleaning. Above is an old Canon EOS 5D photo with 18+ dust spots.

A great benefit of the Spot Healing Brush tool over the newer Remove tool is its speed. It works instantaneously, whereas the Remove tool might keep you waiting for several seconds, particularly on the first use of any session for some reason.

An intricate black-and-white illustration of a historical figure in profile, wearing a cloak and hat. The image is divided in two, with a red circle highlighting a spot on the left side and no spot on the right.
The Spot Healing Brush sometimes does an okay job removing blemishes over repetitive patterns and lines.

Perhaps because of its speed and suitability for many everyday tasks, the Spot Healing Brush tool sits atop Photoshop’s “J” set of healing tools. (You can rifle through the tools by hitting Shift + J on the keyboard.)

Remove Tool

The Remove tool removes unwanted items or blemishes from the image and replaces them using an advanced algorithm or Generative AI (from version 26.0.0). You won’t need Generative AI provided there is a suitable area in the image to sample from.

Without Generative AI, the Remove tool is still a powerful tool, and skipping AI makes it faster. It only struggles when the detail in the image is ever-changing, or the potential sampling area is too small or narrow. That’s when AI becomes invaluable.

A high-rise building's glass facade is shown twice for comparison. The left image has no window open, while the right image shows an open window. Labels indicate that a generative AI tool removed the window in the left image.
I tried to replace this open window with the Remove tool, but it needs Generative AI to work well since there’s no ideal area to sample from (all windowpanes are at different angles and diverging widths).

The Remove tool is better than the Spot Healing Brush at maintaining the integrity of edges, even in its non-AI form. It makes smarter decisions about where to sample from and seems able to reorient details to some extent. For instance, the offline Remove tool can rebuild damaged corners if it sees other intact corners.

Remove Tool: Find Distractions

New in Photoshop 2025 is the “Find Distractions” AI function under the Remove tool. This automatically selects wires and cables or people, and in the case of the former, removes them without further ado. Selections of people are editable.

A historic cemetery with a variety of gravestones and a prominent mausoleum. Red arrows point to a mysterious figure in the trees, highlighted in an inset box on the upper right, adding an air of intrigue to the scene.
Easy removal of two overhead cables from this old UK cemetery using “Find Distractions.” The tool is thorough enough to trace the cables across the treetops, but with architecture, you’d want to scrutinize any changes.

The Find Distractions tool is good at finding and selecting people, but you’ll often need to add their shadows to the selection. There’s a limit to how much detail you’d want to reinvent behind “distractions” in well-known locations, so their position is critical.

Comparison of two photo editing tools on a teal background with a gold flower. Left side shows "Remove Tool" use with a smooth finish. Right side shows "Spot Healing Brush Tool" with a slightly uneven texture. Red arrows point below each tool.
Above, the Remove tool maintains the integrity of the petal edge while the Spot Healing Brush tool destroys it.

Healing Brush Tool

Choose the Healing Brush tool if you want control over where pixels are sampled from. This is the manual version of the Spot Healing Brush. Before healing, you sample a suitable area of the image rather than have Photoshop attempt it for you.

Turn to the Healing Brush tool to accurately maintain texture and shape in the area you want to heal. It will attempt to match color and brightness in the target area. It can work better than automatic tools when you only have a small or narrow area to sample from.

Both Healing Brush tools and the Clone Stamp come with blend modes. Darken and Lighten modes are useful in certain circumstances. They let you target light and dark areas (e.g., distracting specular highlights using Darken mode). You can fade the effect of healing brushes or use them on a separate layer and reduce opacity.

Two green apples with subtle red spots against a black background. There's a smaller inset of the same image in the bottom right corner. The apples are illuminated to highlight their texture and color.
I used the Healing Brush in Darken mode with 50% hardness to remove the hotspot from this mirrored apple. The precision allowed me to sample from an area the auto-sampling tools missed.

The Healing Brush is also better for larger areas than the Spot Healing Brush as the latter is likely to insert obvious repeated details. When you control the process, this is more avoidable. The name of the Spot Healing Brush is best taken literally.

Patch Tool

The Patch tool is ideal for removing or duplicating large areas or objects using the “Source” or “Destination” settings in Normal mode. You can use other tools to make your selection (e.g., Lasso tools) and then click on the Patch tool to drag this into place.

A Diffusion slider is included with the normal Patch tool, which is a bit like a brush hardness setting, affecting the edge transition of your selection. A high Diffusion setting softens edges for better blending but also causes nearby details to bleed into the result.

A black and white portrait of an older man with sideburns, wearing a dark coat and white shirt. A red circle highlights a section of the image with visible scratches or marks. The background is plain.
The Patch tool is ideal for removing grouped blemishes. With a ” Normal” patch set to Source mode, I can just drag this selection down to eradicate the problem area.

If you use the Patch tool in Content-Aware mode and select a low Structure value, you can normally avoid smudging problems caused by sampling near object edges or even over them. The result is seamlessly blended, too, with no Diffusion value to worry over.

Like the Healing Brush tool, the Patch tool lets you choose the source area for sampling and provides a preview as you move it into your target area.

With images in poor condition, you can meticulously fix multiple blemishes with other tools in one area and then graft that area elsewhere using the patch tool. That’s provided the areas are compatible, of course.

Clone Stamp Tool

The Clone Stamp tool duplicates sampled content without trying to blend it into the target area, although you can adjust edge hardness to help merge detail. It preserves the color, luminosity, and texture of the sampled area.

I wondered when I started this article if the Clone Stamp hadn’t become obsolete. The upgraded Remove tool undoubtedly steals part of the Clone Stamp’s usefulness, but it remains a powerful tool that’s unlikely to disappear.

Two green pottery jugs are placed on a wooden table in a softly lit room. The background features a window with sheer curtains, creating a warm, cozy atmosphere. Framed pictures are partially visible on the wall.
The Clone Stamp lets you copy from one document to another. Here, I’ve used it to clone texture and a lighter, warmer tone across the whole image from another file of equal dimensions (on a new layer with Soft Light blending). Since the mapping between the two files syncs, the Clone Stamp has effectively become a dodge tool and texturizer.

If a background (e.g., sky) is uniform in texture and tone, the Clone Stamp can rapidly remove dust spots from an image. This was once its chief remit, but duplication is its enduring forte. It can fix facial features by transplanting detail from one area to another. You can flip the sample horizontally or vertically if necessary and alter its angle.

Close-up of an owl's face with striking orange eyes and detailed feathers. In the top left, a small image of the owl is shown alongside editing software, highlighting the horizontal flip feature with red text and arrows.
I used the Clone Stamp tool to duplicate the owl’s open eye and flip it horizontally using the Clone Source panel. I’d need to cut down on the symmetrical details for added realism. (Photo: Jean van der Meulen/Pexels)

Because the Clone Stamp tool does not attempt to blend the tone or color of the sampled area into the target area, it’s ideal for tidying up edges. It avoids the smudging effect you’ll often battle against elsewhere. A neat old trick is to hold down the shift key to clone a straight line between two points after sampling.

Content-Aware Fill

You can use Content-Aware Fill after selecting an area as a way of healing blemishes. It’s found under the Edit menu, but you can right-click inside the selection to access it.

Unlike the Remove tool, Content-Aware Fill gives you control over the sample area, which sometimes achieves a better result with complex tasks. I’ve used Content-Aware Fill with the Polygonal Lasso tool to fix long scratches on film scans.

A field of vibrant pink chive flowers with long green stems, filling the image with lush greenery and clusters of delicate, round blossoms in full bloom.
This 20-year-old+ scanned 35mm transparency has a long horizontal scratch near the top that I closely selected with the Polygonal Lasso tool. I can then use Content-Aware Fill to remove it.

If the area you’re trying to fill is complex, it’s often better to tackle it in several smaller parts. This is true of other healing or replacement tools and methods, also.

Generative Fill

I usually use Generative Fill to recreate an area without entering any prompt. Some of its functionality overlaps with the latest AI-powered Remove tool, but Generative Fill gives you three variations to choose from with each usage.

Generative Fill can be used for retouching skin, removing blown highlights, creating backgrounds, reconstructing edges, expanding images, or creating composite images from scratch (albeit with limited resolution).

A landscape with an olive tree and a stone wall. A red-bordered inset shows a zoomed view of the same area with image editing software interface visible, highlighting details in the natural setting.
Highlights were blown along the gravel path in this image, but Generative Fill enabled me to add detail. The ability to choose from three variations with each use sets it apart from the AI-powered Remove tool.

Ethical questions arise when using AI to create content. Secondary details seem trivial, but it’d be anathema to distort the truth in some photographic genres. Adobe Firefly powers Generative Fill, which needs an Internet connection to work.

A scenic view of a pine forest at sunrise, with mist hovering over the trees and mountains in the background. The foreground is dotted with purple heather, under a sky filled with scattered clouds.
A landscape of sorts quickly constructed with Generative Fill. It’s hard to attach any emotion to a scene that never existed (a problem with AI images in general).

Quick Takeaway Points

  • Spot Healing Brush Tool: Quickly remove flaws over plain or repetitive areas.
  • Remove Tool: Remove objects or flaws and fill the space with convincing detail.
  • Healing Brush Tool: Manual sampling for fine-tuned healing results.
  • Patch Tool: Versatile large-area healing with a handy Content-Aware mode.
  • Clone Stamp Tool: Clean duplication without integrated blending.
  • Content-Aware Fill: Remove objects or flaws with control over sampling areas.
  • Generative Fill: Recreate lost detail, swap backgrounds, add or remove items.

Other Healing/Cloning Methods

Other healing or cloning methods exist utilizing alternative Photoshop tools.

Dust & Scratches Filter

The Dust & Scratches filter found under Filter>Noise in Photoshop is useful for removing multiple dust spots in scanned images. This filter degrades the image, but the effect is barely perceptible when used with care.

To use the Dust & Scratches filter, create a duplicate layer and apply the filter on that layer. A Radius of 4-5 pixels usually works for sharply defined dust spots, but the Threshold setting should be as high as possible while achieving the desired result. Ignore the overall look of the image for now.

Once you’ve found the ideal settings, apply a black mask to the duplicate layer. Then, use the Brush tool set to white to paint out all the dust spots. Avoid brushing over edges or lines as these noticeably deteriorate.

A black and white photo of a hand holding a book. The image is split in two to show a comparison. Both sections feature a small editing window with settings labeled "Dust & Scratches" visible on top of the photo.
The Dust & Scratches filter often removes dust spots with little discernible effect on plain areas, but it degrades edges, lines, and fine details (see sleeve above). It’s best to apply it selectively using a duplicate layer and mask.

Copy & Paste with Free Transform

Copying and pasting a selection creates a new layer. I do this if I want to transplant one detail on top of another with unlimited scope for adjustment. If you click on Free Transform (Edit menu), you can move the pasted selection to the location of your choice and easily spin/resize it. Reducing its opacity helps you position it precisely.

There’s no automatic blending using this method, so you must remove harsh edges and blend the new detail in, often starting with brushing the edges using a layer mask and soft brush. Further tuning is achieved with opacity, blending modes, and healing tools.

Two young boys in worn-out clothing lean against each other, smoking cigarettes. The background is blurred, focusing on their expressions and attire. The image is in black and white, suggesting it is from an earlier time period.
In this old photo, I’m trying to reconstruct the boy’s obscured jawline using Free Transform. I’ve copied and pasted his left jaw, inverted the copied area to make it darker, spun it into place on the opposite side using Free Transform, and lowered opacity. Next, I’ll retouch the grafted area to get rid of its harsh edges and blend it all convincingly.

I might occasionally use this method on facial features (e.g., eyes) or architectural elements. It’s almost redundant with the advent of AI, though the precision of the manual process may sometimes let you stay truer to the original image.

This method is like using the copy-and-paste Clone Stamp tool, except I sometimes find it easier to manipulate (note that resizing the selection affects its technical quality, so you’d often want to limit that).

Painting Out Blotches with the Brush Tool

Sometimes with large blotches over intricate areas, I create a new layer in Overlay mode (Alt/Option + New Layer), check the “Fill with Overlay-neutral color (50% gray)” box, and paint over blemishes with the Brush tool set to white at 7-10% opacity.

This method can work well with stains on old prints or oversized semi-opaque dust spots. An area with busy detail is ideal, as any slight flaw in your painting will be hard to discern. Blemishes in plain areas are better dealt with using other methods.

A side-by-side comparison of an old man’s photograph, with the right side showing red circles highlighting specific areas on his face. A small dialog box is open on the left side, displaying editing options.
I’ve removed some blotches from this old Charles Darwin portrait using a low-opacity white brush over a gray layer. One benefit of this method is that you retain the original underlying texture or detail.

The Final Retouch

Adobe upgraded the Remove tool during the writing of this article, so some of the original text was “writ in water” as Keats once gloomily said.

The upgrade didn’t appear like a proverbial bolt from the blue, as it was in the PS Beta version, but one wonders where the road for AI retouching ends. I’d rather it didn’t destroy the livelihoods of those eminently more skillful at retouching than I am. If it only deals with the mundane stuff that we all do, I’d be okay with that.

A digital artwork depicts a woman's face split into two styles: vibrant and organic on the left, icy and digital on the right. A hand holds a paintbrush touching the icy side. Icons of Photoshop and Illustrator are visible.

I’m sure some of my methodology is slightly weird, unnecessary, convoluted, whatever. There are usually multiple ways of doing things in Photoshop. Notwithstanding, I’d be glad if any of the above proved useful to a few of my fellow digital healers.

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