A Photographer’s Guide to Freelensing, The Poor Man’s Tilt-Shift Lens


Freelensing is a relatively inexpensive way of getting the similarly unique effect of an expensive tilt-shift lens, where the focus plane is thrown out of whack with the added bonus of natural light leaks. No, this isnt anything new, and the look that an expensive tilt-shift lens gives has been around for a while, but I wanted to share with you my experience with it and how I did it.

Yes, I did purchase a brand new Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 D lens from B&H only to break it and take it apart the minute I took it out of the box… but that was the reason I purchased it.

I had tossed around the idea of spending the money on a tilt-shift lens that would easily cost me over $1000, but after reading about the freelensing technique from Sam Hurd, I figured I would give it a try. At the end of the day, it’s the unique look that I’m going for, so if I could get that by breaking a $150 lens, I’m down to do it.


The idea behind a tilt-shift lens is tilting the lens at an angle to the sensor to change the orientation of the plane of focus (PoF). The technique of freelensing, not only gives you the ability to change the PoF, but it also gives you some pretty cool light leaks from not having the lens actually attached to the camera.


You can do this with both Nikon and Canon DSLR cameras, and also Sony from what I’ve read, and a cheap 50mm lens seems to work the best, the Nikkor 50mm f/1.8 worked perfect for me. Since you’re not actually mounting the lens, the manufacturer of the lens doesn’t matter, you can use a Nikon lens with a Canon or vice versa. Before ordering the Nikon 50mm lens, I first tried the technique using a Canon 50mm f/1.8 lens that I use on my Canon 35mm film bodies.

The technique worked, but the problem was the rear element is pretty flush with the lens mount which didn’t allow me to get close enough to the sensor. It didn’t look like I could take only the mount off very easily, and since it is the only 50mm Canon lens I have I really didn’t want to go ripping it apart. I knew that in order for this technique to work I needed to be able to get the rear element closer to the sensor, and once I realized the only way to do this was to do a little re-constructing of a lens, I hopped online and ordered up the $120 Nikon 50mm f/1.8.

Three days later big brown showed up with my new lens and you would have thought that $1830.00 Nikon 85mm f/2.8D PC-E tilt-shift lens had arrived I was so excited. Screw driver in hand, I opened the box and like a surgeon I began to operate.


I removed the mount, aperture ring, and while trying to not glue my fingers together, glued the aperture ring so it stays wide open. This wasn’t by any means a ground breaking procedure, this technique of using a broken lens has been done before, but anytime you purposely break a lens right out of the box it just feels… well… a little odd.

Once I had it stripped down, the rear element stuck out like a sore thumb and there was now room for it to get closer to the sensor. If anything, now I would have to be careful not to hit the mirror with it.




Once the glue was dry I grabbed my D800, dismounted my 24-70mm f/2.8 that was on there, made sure it was on Manual Mode, then turned on Live view and started moving the broken 50mm lens around in front of the sensor.

WOW, that did it; getting the rear element closer to the sensor was the trick. Now, getting something in focus… that would take a little practice. I set the focus ring to infinity and moved the rear element back and forth from the sensor to get the focus I wanted.

The first things I noticed were…

  1. The focus plane just go whack, which is what I wanted, but in order to get the results that I wanted from this, I would need to be able to nail the focus on the one spot I wanted in focus.
  2. After some practice I was able to start getting focus up close and further away, it is difficult to do, but at the right angle and set up, there can be two points of focus which is pretty cool. (Same as a tilt shift lens).
  3. Light leaks are a really cool effect, when they are controlled. It was hard not over doing the light leaks and getting too much light in was something I needed to watch out for.
  4. If you like bokeh and razor thin DOF…this will blow your mind.
  5. There is a lot of vignetting, which just helps put the focus on the subject when done right.
  6. DUST! I needed to order some sensor wipes, dust was going to be an issue no matter how hard I tried to avoid it, but as long as I’m at least careful it shouldn’t be that big of a deal. After freelensing for over a week the dust still wasnt that bad, and only needed air to clean the sensor.
  7. Yes, this is a lot different that using a Lensbaby. A Lensbaby gives a tiny sweet spot in focus, one point of focus, and blurs out everything else. Throwing off the focus plane is much different. The same difference between a tilt shift lens and Lensbaby, a line of focus compared to a spot of focus.

So was my freelensing project successful? I think so. Is it something I can use on every shoot or regularly for Cass Imaging? No. Is it something I can toss in my bag and bring with me to sneak in a few shots with certain clients that would appreciate a little creativity and uniqueness? Absolutely.

I’ve been able to create some pretty neat and unique images in only a weeks time, so I’m excited to use the technique more in different situations.


No, the look this technique gives isnt for everyone, and I’m sure there are going to be a lot of you scratching your heads still at the fact that I broke a brand new lens. But overall, I couldn’t be happier with my decision, and I now have no real desire to spend well over a grand to buy a tilt-shift lens.

It’s going to take a lot of practice to get good at it, but that’s what photography is all about: getting out and shooting, and getting better and better at whatever technique it is that your practicing. I’ve been messing around with my poor man’s tilt-shift since I broke it and you know what, I’ve been having a blast.

It’s cool. It’s unique. It’s a lot of fun.


There are a couple different techniques that I use, such as the bokeh panorama or Brenizer Method, to add a little creativity to certain shoots, depending on the client. It may surprise you, but for the most part they end up loving those shots in the end, and its the final product they are concerned with, no matter how you got it. Whether it be a broken $120 lens or a $2000 tilt-shift lens.

Creativity goes a long way in photography, and setting yourself apart from everyone else with a camera — or cell phone — is what you should be striving for.

You want to stand out, you want to separate yourself, you want to have people recognize your work and know that a photograph is yours without using a watermark. Yes, this is difficult to do, especially in today’s world of smart phones and Instagram, but the more techniques and tricks you have in your bag the better. The more you can do with a photo pre-processing and straight out of the camera is huge.

I hope you enjoyed the article and I definitely recommend giving freelensing a try if you have a few extra bucks to spend on a lens to break. A used 50mm f/1.8D can be found on Craigslist for about $100 if not cheaper, it doesn’t have to be brand new.

Here are some shots I’ve taken using the freelensing technique:














Editor’s note: As mentioned in the post, photographer Jay Cassario wrote up this walkthrough/tutorial after seeing Sam Hurd’s tutorial, which was published here two months ago.

About the author: Jay Cassario is a photographer based in Atco, New Jersey. He is the owner of Cass Imaging and Jay Cassario Photo, and is one of the writers behind Lightshop. This article originally appeared here.

  • Derrick Lytle

    I use an old manual Nikon lens on my Canon and it’s awesome. No need to take anything apart and it only cost me 30 bucks. Magic Lantern is also very useful while free lensing.

  • A_Lwin

    1) Could’ve saved himself the trouble and purchase a Lensbaby. Ruined a perfectly good Nikon lens.

    2) Ruined a perfectly good lens to make instagram filter shots?

  • Jay Cassario

    If you read the article it explains the benefits to taking the lens apart, and having the rear element closer to the sensor. It’s also different than a lensbaby, and cheaper.

  • Mansgame

    Isn’t Lightroom and photoshop’s distortion control a poor man’s tilt shift?

  • dslr video studio

    Freelensing and light leaks really can help to create a vintage and nostalgic feel to photography and dslr videography.

  • Iboughtoneandiloveit ya!

    Mansgamer that is incorrect- if you just think about it there must be a reason people are still willing to shell out top dollar for a perspective controlling lens- eh?

  • nate parker

    yeah lens whacking is a wicked good time- just can’t condone having my open guts hanging out in the world with the lens unmounted tho- hence my love for my Ts-e. You could always just get a new-used Ts-e off the internets and save on those sensor swabs in the end- eh?!

  • Jay Cassario

    hey Nate, I was a little worried about it too, but to be honest with you…I went to clean my sensor after hours and hours of freelensing and there wasnt any more dust than I would normally see. Of course Im being very aware of my envirnment, not facing the wind during heavy pollen season, but it wasnt bad. Like I said in the article, now that I’ve played around with it a good deal and got pretty good at it, I plan on just keeping it in my bag and pulling it out ocassionally. Thats the problem with spending a lot on an expensive tiltshift lens, I just wouldnt use it enough to have it be worth the money.

  • DamianM


  • Leonardo Abreu

    RIP 50mm 1.8d :(

  • Jeff Briggs

    That is only a poor man’s tilt/shift if you pirated the programs.

  • Duke Shin

    Meanwhile on his sensor

  • woe is you

    seriously dude, if its not your lens then why do you care so much? is your life really that unfulfilling that you need to lament someone elses desicions?

  • Mark Moore

    You usually buy an expensive TS lens because you want to increase the effective DOF or correct perspective without loss of resolution. It is much easier to take a sharp image and distort it than the other way around..

  • Jay Cassario

    Sensor is fine.

  • Jay Cassario

    I also picked up a used Canon 50mm F1.8 and tried it, but couldnt get it to work well, then I ordered the Nikon. I put the Canon back together no problem. I also tried this with a used wider lens, a cheap 28mm third party lens, that didnt work well either so I put it back together.

  • Dres

    I bought a lensbaby a few years ago to try messing around with tilt shifty techniques and thought it was pretty cool. I bought the cheapest model with the rubber spring for the enclosure/mount and the plastic lens element. This 50mm DIY thing has exactly the same resolution as the lensbaby muse. This in no way beats the fabulous quality of a real tilt/shift. Doesn’t even come close.

    But hey, it looks like fun! I’m definitely not trying it since I already have my own one-trick-pony gimmick lens.

  • Tyler Magee

    To hipster for my taste. Im sure a lot of people would enjoy doing this tho

  • ninpou_kobanashi

    If you only shoot wide open, you’ll likely not be bothered by sensor dust. If you want to do some macro work later though, and wander off into the f/32 -> f/64 space, you might be surprised and see more cruft on it. It’s amazing how much crap doesn’t show up until you truly stop down.

  • ydYAfuYAself

    i admire the man’s courage and creativity. Why is it that such energetic adventuring engenders such jealous comments on a site as great as Petapixel? Talent is in creating not criticising surely. Not that I’m criticising all the cool dudes who commented !

  • Jay Cassario

    Thank you! I think thats the main point everyone is missing here…I did this as a fun project, Im not building a business around it.

  • Spy Black

    I’m rather curious why you just didn’t pick up and old used lens and try this instead of wrecking a brand new one. It’s your money and you do it how you like, but I think you could have gotten even better old school results using a true old school lens like a Nikkor S series f/2 or f/1.4.

  • Дмитрий Фролов

    Great examples and great explaining.
    Jay, don`t pay attention to replics like “I can do this in PS like in 5 minutes”.
    It`s awesome and cheap technique, which amazes me. I have 24mm, 35mm, 50mm (now my tilt :) ) and 85mm. Tear down mine fifty after reading and it compares nothing but to 45mm tilt-shift.
    Also I made adjusting. I glued mine at 2.8 aperture to be as much as possible close to 45mm 2.8.

    Works amazing for me!

  • Jay Cassario

    Thats awesome! Glad you gave it a try, I would love to see the shots you got with it.

  • Smooth

    Photoshop CS 6 – blur – tilt shift, done.

  • Brett McNally

    I have to say that I feel sorry for the 50mm f1.8 lense, from the “orphanage” to a new home only to be ripped apart to take some photos that probably could have been done in Photoshop. RIP :-( However, this was still an interesting article – Thankyou!

  • Nirob


  • Jiamin C

    Brilliant reply!

  • Capitano Calitri

    Old lenses are too valuable to wreck. Although I bet they’d have cooler results.

  • Capitano Calitri

    It wouldn’t be the same in photoshop. It would look cheaper and not as interesting. I get the highest end post people in the film business who use photoshop and aftereffects telling me how in camera effects always make their work look better when they tweak it. That it’s still better to stat with as much can be done in camera as possible. I’m sure now you’re gonna say the new star wars looks better than puppetry. Making creative decisions in advance takes creative guts. Fixing it in post is still a sad resort to poor planning and lack of vision. ;)

  • Capitano Calitri

    A generic lens now has more character. It’s funny how individualism is even frowned down upon with inanimate objects.

  • olly

    great article, thanks mate. do you know if will work breaking a 40mm canon pancake lens. they are cheap, but not sure if the rear element depth is large enough? cheers