Grow Your Love of Flower Photography
Photographing flowers is easy and very rewarding. You can create beautiful images with any equipment, most any day or evening, indoors and out. Spring is nirvana for flower photography but I find good opportunities all year.
Lenses
(Mostly) anything works when it comes to lenses. I’ve succeeded with ordinary 35mm lenses up to telephoto. My favorite range is 50mm to 90mm, with a preference towards the longer end. You do not need a macro lens. Even cheap lenses are sharp in the center and if they blur at the edges, that’s totally ok, even preferred.
Aperture
I prefer the range of f/4 to f/8. I’ve even tried f/0.95, but the depth of field is only a millimeter, so it’s hard to nail focus and you can’t sharply capture enough of the flower. Photographers like fast apertures to blur the background. However, as these examples show, blurry backgrounds behind flowers usually occur naturally with any aperture.

Flash
Gentle flash is usually great, but not essential. I like the way flash lights up the anthers and pollen, deep in the center. I most often use my EVF magnifier, to center autofocus on the anthers and ensure they are sharp. The anthers in flower photos are the equivalent of eyes in portraits. I also often use a monopod to help me aim at the tiny centers.
Anthers
These are the pollen dispensers in flowers. They are fuzzy with pollen particles.
Often the same flower can be captured in different ways, emphasizing just the center, or wider. And don’t overlook unopened buds.
Of course, foraging bees are a bonus. Don’t fear them. I’ve photographed tens of thousands of bees and never been threatened.
Flash can help to darken backgrounds. Take a few underexposed test shots without flash to establish exposure for dark backgrounds. Then add flash to bring up the flower. The more distant the background, the greater this effect.
Weather
Clouding days are best for their even illumination. But flash helps to fill harsh shadows on sunny days. I tend to underexpose, which results in richer colors and helps to preserve texture in light petals.
Although a fast shutter can freeze flowers waving in the wind, your autofocus will be confused by waving flowers. Take extra shots and try manual focus on windy days.
Water drops, after a rain, are beautiful.
I’ve tried spraying water on a flower, but the drops were too small.
With modern high-megapixel cameras, you needn’t be very close. You’ll have plenty of range to crop.
Editing
I crop to emphasize the flower. Then I adjust exposure for bright highlights, taking care to retain texture. Then, darken the mid-tones to enrich the color, possibly pushing the saturation control. Finally, I moderately sharpen most photos. If you have a high-megapixel camera, you may end up with a file that is large and slow to share. So I often resize to create a smaller version but retain the original for printing. When viewed on most screens, a 1200-pixel wide file will look as good as anything larger. Experiment.
About the author: Alan Adler lives in Los Altos, California. The opinions expressed in this article are solely those of the author. He has been an avid photographer for 60 years. He is also a well-known inventor with about 40 patents. His best-known inventions are the Aerobie flying ring and the AeroPress coffee maker.