Posts Tagged ‘framing’

Pointing Your Finger May Help You Aim Your Camera More Accurately

Having trouble framing shots when “shooting from the hip” and not looking through (or at) your camera? Lifehacker suggests pointing with your left hand index finger to improve your accuracy. Simply press the finger against your lens, parallel to your camera’s line of sight. The idea is that while we point at things all the time, aiming a camera isn’t quite as intuitive (though it comes with practice). By making the camera an “extension of your body”, you might be able to aim it more naturally!

(via Lifehacker)

Air Camera Concept Shoots When You Pretend to Take a Picture

What if framing a scene with your fingers actually caused photos to be created? Air Camera is a clever camera concept by designer Yeon Su Kim that would make that idea a reality. It consists of two components: a ring-like camera worn on the thumb, and a tension-sensing device worn on the forefinger. If the tension unit senses that you’re making a camera gesture, it triggers the camera to snap a photo. Make a video camera gesture, and it begins recording video! The resulting photos would also be synced automatically with your smartphone.
Read more…

How to Shoot, Print, and Frame a Massive Photo on a Budget

Want to adorn a wall with a giant print using your own photography? Here’s a great video in which photographer Lee Morris shares how he shot, printed, and framed a massive 5-foot-wide panoramic print for less than $150 — super cheap compared to the $1,000+ you might pay to have it professionally done. After shooting multiple photos on a bridge in Rome, he merged the images using Photoshop, had a metallic print made by Bay Photo Labs, and then framed it using a large mirror he found at Bed Bath and Beyond. The final result is quite impressive!


Disclosure: Bay Photo Labs is a sponsor of PetaPixel

An Epic Way to Show Off Your Favorite Polaroid Photographs

Creating plexiglass clones of your Polaroid photos is a classy way of showing them off, but Lori Andrews’ (aka the 10 cent designer) has an equally awesome method: she picked 154 of her favorite Polaroid pics and had them neatly framed under glass for her kitchen.

Check out the digital versions of the photographs she used here.

(via Photojojo)


Image credit: polaroid ♥ by The 10 cent designer and used with permission

Handmade Bamboo Frames to Show Off Your iPhoneography

iPhoneography (i.e. iPhone photography) is exploding in popularity, and undoubtedly many people jumping into the craze will want to share their work in a non-digital way in addition to broadcasting their photos on the Interwebs. The Boo Box by hatchcraft is a handmade bamboo frame designed specifically for iPhone photographs. It’s available in three different colors (light, mixed, and dark) and costs $20 from the hatchcraft store.

By the way, hatchcraft was started by Shane Rich, the guy who created the “Million Dollar Homepage of Photography” that we featured at the beginning of the year.

Olympus Patent Reveals Adjustable Aspect Ratio, Photographer’s Eye Detection

Canon may have revealed its plans for the Wonder Camera yesterday, but Olympus also quietly released something of its own to marvel at.

According to a newly published Olympus patent, originally filed in 2004, a new camera may be in development that is designed to make consumer point-and-shoots even more intuitive for casual photographers.

Read more…

MIOPS: Smartphone Controllable High Speed Camera Trigger

MIOPS is a new smartphone-controlled camera trigger that combines all of the features photographers want in a high-speed camera trigger into one convenient device.

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Framing People in Tunnels of Light

One of the things that never ceases to catch my eye is when people are framed in interesting ways within tunnels of light. That sounds a little confusing, so let me show you some examples…

Here’s a photograph I took just a few days ago on a walk along a greenbelt near my home (you can hover over it to see the original, unaltered photograph):

framingwithlighta2

Canon 40D + 16-35mm 2.8 at f/2.8, 1/80s, and ISO 800.

This isn’t the best of examples, but I’ll just start off with it. Notice how the trees create a shadowy, natural vignette around the two people walking arm in arm. You might be surprised, but you can find these “natural vignettes” everywhere you look — you just need to look for them! I do wish the couple was a little closer to me along the path, perhaps at the edge of where the trees’ shadows reach (you’ll see why in just a moment).

The other really interesting thing I like about this photograph is how the gap in the sky created by the trees is the shape of a heart, but I digress…

Let’s move on to another example…

Here’s a photograph I took back in February 2008 at the UC Davis arboretum. My family and I were walking along the path and passed under a tunnel (hover over it to see the original):

framingwithlightb2

Canon 20D + 24-70mm 2.8 at f/7.1, 1/200s, and ISO 800

The light bouncing off the water was creating interesting patterns on the tunnel wall, while my family became silhouettes when framed by the strong daylight at the end of the tunnel.

This is slightly cheating, since a dark tunnel during the day will always be a place to shoot “tunnel of light” photographs. Thus, I find naturally occurring “light tunnels” much more interesting. They depend much more on where you stand and how you frame the shot.

This third and final example was taken back in April of this year outside the VLSB building on the UC Berkeley campus (hover over to see original):

framingwithlightc2

The man was still in the shadow of the overhanging branches, so he too became a silhouette when framed by the bright scene in the background.

Adding some strong artificial vignetting during post-processing also helps to make this kind of photograph more interesting.

Next time you’re outdoors, try framing someone using shadows and a tunnel of light!

Friends on a Bench

One of the results of always carrying around my camera is that I end up with a lot of portraits of my friends. I had lunch with a few of my buddies last Sunday, and snapped this photograph while waiting for a friend:

IMG_2390

I was using a Canon 40D and Canon 16-35mm with the following settings:

Aperture: f/5.0
Shutter Speed: 1/100
Focal Length: 16mm
ISO: 800

Instead of using a higher focal length and backing away from my friends, I decided to go ultra-wide and move in close. This caused the closer friend (Joseph) to be much more prominent, even though they were both sitting close together. If I had used a longer focal length and backed up, my friends would have been more flattened out, and Joseph would have been featured less prominently in the photograph. Thus, going wide and moving in close to a particular person when taking a group photograph can really help to make a photo more dramatic.

shadowpositioningAs with most portrait shots, I focused on Joseph’s eyes before recomposing the shot. I also wanted to make sure that my main subject wasn’t directly in the middle of the frame, and that the two bodies subject balanced out.

I think if I had framed Joseph directly in the center, the fact that my other friend (Anna) was looking directly at the camera as well puts too much action on the left side of the frame, and too much empty space on the right side:

If there was only one friend in the shot, I would have pushed him more to the side, since there wouldn’t be another pair of eyes to work with.

I guess this breaks the rule of thirds if you consider both subjects as one entity, like in the silhouette to the left, but with the way this photograph was set up I think it worked to have the main subject closer to the middle and another subject a little to the side.

Another thing I chose to do was get down very low. Notice how they’re sitting on a pretty low bench, yet I’m still taking the photograph from below their eye level.

Now regarding post-processing, I first opened it up in Adobe Camera Raw and made the following edits:

fonbacrWhite Balance: Auto. It was decent and auto fixed it up by making it a tiny bit warmer.
Exposure: Left it unchanged.
Recovery: Anna’s white clothes were clipped in certain areas, so I upped recovery to get the detail in those areas back.
Fill Light: Added a splash of fill light to make the shadow areas a little less pronounced.
Blacks: Left this unchanged.
Brightness: Left this one unchanged as well.
Contrast: Increased to 60 to recover some of the contrast lost in previous steps, and to just increase it a little in general.
Clarity: Increased to 40 to bring out some detail in places like the bright clothes and the texture of the pillar.
Vibrance: Increased to make the colors pop a little more.

I also did the basic increase in sharpening, and added some vignetting to bring more attention to the subjects. These were all just pretty basic edits that I also step through when processing my RAW photographs.

Here’s how it turned out after modifications in Adobe Camera Raw (hover over it to compare to the unedited version):

IMG_2390b

This is where I would normally be done with an image like this. However, suppose I wish I had used a wider aperture to have a shallower depth of field (i.e. if I had used f/2.8 rather than f/5.0). Obviously I can’t go back and reshoot, but what I can do is fake the depth of field in Photoshop. I might go into more detail into how to do this sometime in the future, but I’ll just briefly describe it now.

First, I duplicate the layer to make a blur layer. I use Filter->Blur->Lens Blur for the blur. Then I use the following mask on this blur layer to selectively choose where to add blur and where not to (hover over it to see the blur layer. Might take a few seconds to load):

mask

Here’s the resulting image with the fake depth of field added (hover over it to compare it to the unedited photo. Hover over this link to compare to the non-blurred version.):

IMG_2390c

I hope this was an interesting and informative walkthrough. Leave a comment if you have any questions, suggestions, or tips!