Posts Tagged ‘effect’
Kyle Jones wanted to see what it was like to film from inside a guitar, so he stuck his iPhone inside and started recording. The resulting footage shows the strings vibrating in wacky wave patterns thanks to the rolling shutter effect, which we also saw in the Canon 5D Mark II footage of a bass player shared earlier this year.
There’s plenty of tutorials out there teaching you how to fake the “Lomo effect” using Photoshop, but most of them don’t provide very realistic results. This “ultimate” tutorial by SLR Lounge attempts to mimic all the distinct characteristics of lomo photos (e.g. cross-processed colors, vignetting, blown highlights, and blurred edges) giving you a level of control over the results that an iPhone app could never do.
urbanscreen discovered this strange string-wobble effect when shooting a bass player with a Canon 5D Mark II. No special effects or slow motion were added to the footage — what you see results from the frequency of the strings and the fast shutter speed of the camera. Here’s another video showing the same effect from different angles.
Can anyone explain what’s going on here?
Design firm XNcreative shot some photographs with a Canon Rebel 550D (T2i) while flying over various locations in the western US, but didn’t feel the still photos captured the original grandeur of the locations, so they decided to turn the stills into a motion-faked video. It was all done using Adobe Photoshop CS5 and Apple Motion. You can find a walkthrough for how it was created here if you want to try your hand at this 3D effect.
Here’s a quick tutorial on how you can fake a slow motion effect with only still photos using Adobe After Effects.
MIOPS is a new smartphone-controlled camera trigger that combines all of the features photographers want in a high-speed camera trigger into one convenient device.
I took this shot with my Canon EOS 450D, and a Canon 50mm f1.8 — my favourite lens in the case of portraits especially.
I chose to make the shooting session about a hour and half before sunset when there’s still a lot of light, but with a warm, lovely quality to the light. I prefer warm tones, and to emphasize these tones and balance the cool colours of my model dress and tree leaves I set White Balancing to “cloudy”. You can see in the picture that the sun was on the right side of model, so she didn’t have too much direct light on her face. The white wall behind acted as a discrete reflecting panel, resulting in light that’s quite uniform.