It’s a Great Time to Buy Glass! Both Nikon and Fuji are Offering Steep Lens Rebates


If you’re in the market for some new glass, now is the time to act. Not only is this the time of year that Nikon offers its annual “lens only” rebates — where you can get steep discounts on lenses WITHOUT having to buy a DSLR — but other companies are following suit. Most notably Fuji, who is apparently slaughtering Nikon in this discount battle.

You can head straight over to B&H Photo’s deals on both Nikon and Fuji glass by clicking here or here, respectively. But for those of you who want a bit more info, here’s a quick breakdown of what’s on sale and how much you can expect to save.

Nikon Lens Rebates — Up to $400 Off!

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  • Nikkor 28mm f/1.8G Lens — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 40mm f/2.8G DX Micro — $30 Savings
  • Nikkor 50mm f/1.8G — $20 Savings
  • Nikkor 50mm f/1.4G AF — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 85mm f/1.8G — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 85mm f/3.5G ED VR DX Micro — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 105mm f/2.8G IF-ED VR Micro — $185 Savings
  • Nikkor 10-24mm f/3.5-4.5G ED DX — $150 Savings
  • Nikkor 16-35mm f/4G ED VR — $300 Savings
  • Nikkor 16-85mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR DX — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR II DX — $250 Savings
  • Nikkor 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5G ED VR — $100 Savings
  • Nikkor 24-120mm f/4G ED VR — $300 Savings
  • Nikkor 28-300mm f/3.5-5.6G ED VR — $150 Savings
  • Nikkor 80-400mm f/4.5-5.6G ED VR — $400 Savings

The Nikon rebates are available until March 1st. Click here to head over to B&H Photo and take advantage.

Fuji Lens Rebates — Up to $250 Off!

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  • Fujifilm 14mm f/2.8 XF R Ultra Wide-Angle — $200 Savings
  • Fujifilm 18mm f/2.0 XF R — $200 Savings
  • Fujifilm XF 23mm f/1.4 R — $150 Savings
  • Fujifilm XF 27mm f/2.8 (Black or Silver) — $250 Savings
  • Fujifilm 35mm f/1.4 XF R — $150 Savings
  • Fujifilm 60mm f/2.4 XF Macro — $250 Savings
  • Fujifilm XF 55-200mm f/3.5-4.8 R LM OIS — $200 Savings

As you can see, Fuji’s lens offers are pretty great across the board (no meager “$20 off” savings here), which probably has something to do with why Fuji is “crushing” Nikon in this rebate battle according to Fstoppers. And what’s more, these deals will be available until March 22nd, long after the Nikon deals have gone away.

Click here to head over to B&H Photo and take advantage.

Other Lens Rebates

In order to keep afloat during this Nikon and Fuji rebate war, a couple of other brands are offering their own discounts. We won’t list all of the lenses on sale, but both Tamron and Sigma are slashing prices.

You can get up to $100 off select Tamron lenses through a special mail-in rebate offer going on now. Sigma fans, on the other hand, can instantly save up to $300 off certain lenses. Check out those discounts by following the provided links.

  • Dhaval Panchal

    US only?

  • Leamos

    for the crap watercolor artifacts fuji? no thanks

  • SeoulFoodNinja

    Look at all the “savings!” This just means that lenses are overpriced in the first place!

  • lord eels

    why no pro glass this time, nikon? (other than the 105vr, which is excellent)

  • pupkinrupert

    calling lenses “glass” sounds moronic.

  • John

    Fuji 23mm f/14 is $200 off in Canada. Retailing for $699+tax.
    Pretty rare for a better deal to be had north of the border!

  • highfructosecorn

    The artifacts that only Adobe’s raw converter seems to have? The same raw converter that they intend to overhaul to bring in the Fuji film simulations?

  • Eric

    Is it only for B&H?
    Any chances it will be valid for Europe too?

  • Joshua Kern

    go to you local camera store and ask.

  • Matthew Neumann

    No it doesn’t. You just sound moronic for dissing people for calling lenses “glass” in Petapixel comments. Get a life.

  • Theo Lubbe

    The Sigma link is resulting in the B&H landing page :l

  • Theo Lubbe

    You realise that once upon a time, if a camera’s lens had to be changed, people were quite literally swapping out pieces of glass in a tube with mounts, right?

  • Randy Wentzel

    50 f/1.4 is the fastest standard lens Nikon makes. I’d add that to the list. The 16-35 and 80-400 are both widely adopted by pros.

  • pgb0517

    Calling a lens “glass” is a photography thing. You know, that hobby or profession where people use cameras and stuff. Other common photography terms that you might find moronic, or even creepy or threatening: shooter, ‘tog, photog, gear, second shooter (that’s even worse), chimping, doughnuts, long Tom, pixel peeping, and zoom creep. Oooh, creepy.

  • Mabasa

    You’re in error here, no SW today is converting raf correctly, i tried all for my work, no one is doing well, only Pn, C1 and Ir are just a little better (hiding artifacts that they generate)

  • highfructosecorn

    I fail to see how I am “in error”. What would you define as the “correct” converter? The in-camera jpg engine? Some software that would magically produce a bayer sensor image? Or better yet, something that would reproduce film?

    Capture 1 does a phenomenal job. Iridient is pretty good too. ACR on the other hand, currently has some blatantly obvious issues that are visible even without pixel peeping.

  • lord eels

    ummm nikon makes a 50/1.2. it’s my list so you won’t be adding anything. the 16-35 is for “landscape pros” who really aren’t anything. 80-400 comment is so stupid I can’t reply. randi with an “i”

  • Jigsaw

    I gotta say I hate they word “photog”. But that doesn’t make it moronic. :D

  • Mabasa

    Simply today there is not a correct xtrans converter, try a normal sensor vs xtrans and you will see… with every converter im not talkin about acr

  • highfructosecorn

    Here’s the short version: 1) You are in error here, sir, and 2) You have no knowledge of what you are talking about other than regurgitating BS other people whine about without understanding.

    To you, “correct” means it looks like a Bayer array sensor conversion. If we’re going to go with that bit of logic, we could say that there is no “correct” Bayer converter relative to film. And there is no “correct” APS-C converter relative to full frame.

    There is no such thing as a “correct” raw converter for any sensor. There are good ones for sure for each sensor type, and yes the xtrans sensor does require more complex interpolation/demosaic algorithm since the inter-pixel distance is higher and very irregular for some colors. However, I find that if you are pushing the better algorithms out there to the point that you are seeing these “artifacts”, you’d also be pushing the limits of an equivalent bayer sensor raw, and you’d be making a crappy picture either way.

    Hell, I’m sure I could find a noise reduction/sharpening setting that would make even a 5d mkIII show some “watercolor artifacts”.

  • Johns


  • Mabasa

    Look at the Raf converted, look at the artifacts, compare those with a normal bayer RAW .. for me correct is when i can print withoud watercolor artifacts. stop if you want to ride the Fujy horse good luck

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